Beekeeping Archives - The Old Walsh Farm

Drone Bee: 10 Weird & Fascinating Facts That Will Blow Your Mind

Did you know a male honeybee’s ejaculation is so strong, humans can hear it? Or that a drone bee (male honeybee) can’t sting? Or how about that male bees are fatherless…but yet they have a grandfather? Read on for the top 10 weird and utterly fascinating facts about male honeybees.

#1. Drones bee livin’ their best life

Male honeybees don’t clean.
Male honeybees don’t build honeycomb.
Male honeybees don’t forage for food.
Male honeybees don’t look after the baby bees.
Male honeybees don’t protect the hive from intruders.

Oh no. These incredibly idle insects spend their days buzzing lazily around the hive eating honey hand-fed to them by nurse worker bees. That’s right! Drone bees (male honeybees) can’t even feed themselves. Their main purpose in life is to get. it. on. with a virgin queen. Sounds like a pretty good gig, right? But if you’re thinking of becoming a drone bee in your next life, you may want to read to the end of this post.

#2. A drone bee can have sex in the air

You have to give the male honeybee some credit. He can’t build honeycomb or collect nectar, but he can get a lady pregnant while flying. That’s pretty impressive and perhaps why drone honeybees are endowed with some of the largest genitalia, in proportion to body size, in the animal kingdom, according to the excellent book, QueenSpotting.

Queen bee, drone bee and worker bee — *^{From left to right: Queen bee, drone bee, and worker bee}*

#3. Drone honeybees baffle beekeepers and scientists alike

Here’s a fun unsolved mystery for you to ponder:

During mating season, roughly 25,000 male honeybees from up to 200 different colonies (hives) will gather together about 10 to 40 meters high in the air. When the virgin queen leaves for her nuptial flight, which lasts only about 30 minutes, her doting lovers are primed and ready to greet her. These males are driven wild by the sight and smell of the queen and it’s a race to be the first to penetrate her. Only the fastest drones (about 1 in 1000) will have the privilege of mating with the queen.

It’s important the queen mate with as many drone bees as possible to ensure genetic diversity in her offspring. In fact, it’s key to her colony surviving. Hives, where queens mated with at least 7 drone bees, were almost 3 times more likely to survive the working season, according to this study.

Now here is the mysterious part of the story. Drone bees only live on average 90 days and none (or very few) survive the winter months. And yet year after year (for up to a decade or more) they will return to the exact same “congregation areas” or mating sites. How does the drone bee know where to go? And how does the secret location get passed down to the drone bees born the following spring? It’s an unsolved mystery.

#4. The male honeybee’s ejaculation is so strong, humans can hear it

A drone bee’s ejaculation is so powerful, you can apparently hear a “popping” sound as his semen is blasted into the queen’s “sting chamber”. Now that’s an orgasm unlike any other. The drone bee contracts his abs so forcefully he is able to “inflate” his endophallus (the bee equivalent of a penis) via this pressure. As he ejaculates, the drone bee becomes paralyzed and performs a sort of backward flip down to the ground. This is all accomplished in 5 seconds or less. I’m not making this up! Check out the Wikipedia page on drones bees or watch this video to see the whole thing in action.

#5. A drone bee’s penis explodes after mating

Life as a male honeybee is bittersweet. You spend every one of your spring afternoons looking for love, watching and waiting for a queen bee to pass by. But when you finally find your beloved and are actually successful in mating with her…you die. A drone bee’s semen is released so forcefully his endophallus (the bee equivalent of a penis) is ripped from his abdomen along with his intestines. The queen, on the other hand, err ” other bee leg”, flies off, with the drone’s genitalia attached to her. Kinda gives new meaning to the saying, “love hurts”.

PS. If you’d like to learn more about queen bees and how to find the queen bee, check out my previous post.

A drone bee is escorted from the hive. — ^{When mating season is over and the drone bees are no longer useful to their colony, worker bees will toss out any remaining drone bees from the hive as summer temperatures drop. The colony just can’t afford to feed and care for these now useless drone bees.}

#6. Drone bees are starved and tossed out of the hive

If a drone bee is lucky enough to escape death by intercourse, he may not fare any better than his buddies. When mating season is over and the drone bees are no longer useful to their colony, worker bees will toss out any remaining drone bees from the hive as summer temperatures drop. The colony just can’t afford to feed and care for these now useless drone bees.

Here’s how it’s done: First, the worker bees will refuse to feed them. When the drone bees are weakened, the workers will escort them out of the hive refusing to allow them to reenter. The poor drone bees eventually die from starvation or the elements.

Female and male honeybees — *^{How many drone bees can you spot?}*

#7. Drone bees are cheerleaders

No, they don’t carry around miniature pom-poms and kick their little bee legs in the air, but studies have shown drone honeybees do mysteriously raise the morale of their entire hive resulting in increased honey production and healthier and more active worker bees, according to the book, QueenSpotting.

Perhaps if we could understand their buzzing, it would sound something like:

“Honeybees! Honeybees! We’re you’re biggest fans. If you can’t gather the nectar, no one can. Goooooooooo bees!”

In fact, these drone bees are so good at cheerleading, they’re allowed to spend time in colonies that are not their own. If a worker bee were to enter another hive, it would instantly be killed by the guard bees, but drone bees (despite being a draw on honey supplies) are allowed to enter other hives.

A drone bee enters the hive. — ^{Can you spot the male honeybee trying to enter the hive?}

#8. A drone bee produces one and half times as much heat as worker bees

One of the most important jobs in the beehive is to regulate its temperature. If it gets too hot or cold, it can affect the developing baby bees. Although I stated at the beginning of this post that male honeybees were simply lazing around the hive all day, it’s not entirely true. Drone bees actually produce 1.5 times more heat than worker bees mostly due to their larger body size, according to this study. Perhaps this is another reason drone bees are allowed to enter other hives.

#9. A drone bee can’t sting

Don’t be afraid to pick up a drone bee. Without a stinger, they’re great guinea pigs for practicing this beekeeping skill. Although they can’t hurt you, they will attempt to scare you by swinging around their useless tails.

bee puns — *_{Pun from “80+ Bee Puns That Are Un-BEE-lievably Funny“}*

#10. Drone bees are fatherless…but they have a grandfather

Almost all the eggs in a beehive are fertilized except for…you guessed it…those of the male honeybees. Instead, these drone bees develop from unfertilized eggs. This means that a male honeybee has a mother (the queen bee who laid the egg), but no father. So, how does the drone bee have a grandfather? The queen bee was born from a fertilized egg, which means she has a father. Any drone bees produced by the queen will have a grandfather (the father of the queen).

So, now that you’ve read to the end of this post, do you still think you’d like to be a drone bee in your next life? Probably not, but I hope you were amazed and fascinated by these little creatures who, despite being a little lazy, play a vital role in the hive.

Want to read more about bees and beekeeping? Check out my previous posts…

Disclosure: Some of the links above are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I will earn a small commission if you decide to make a purchase after clicking through the link. Thank you for your support! You can find the full disclosure here.

“Bee”ware: The real cost of beekeeping & how to save money

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So, you wanna start beekeeping? But first, you need bees. And then you need a house in which they can live. And then you need tools to help you work the bees without getting stung. And then you need equipment to extract the honey from the hives. And then…

The list seems to go on and on until you are left wondering if you should even bother keeping bees at all. What is the real cost of beekeeping?

Is it possible to start beekeeping without spending a massive amount of money?

Yes and no…

You may be able to get started for about $200 if you build your own hive, snag a wild swarm of bees and buy the cheapest bee suit and the bare minimum amount of equipment.

Otherwise, you could spend up to $1,500 if you’re starting with 2 hives as is recommended by many beekeeping associations.

The goods news is there are many ways to cut costs, which I will share later in this post. But before I do so, I have one last warning – bees die.

I lost a hive when the lid on my sugar-water feeder leaked. Then I lost another newly-split hive because the bees would not accept their new queen despite trying twice with two different queens. They just wouldn’t accept either of them…even after ensuring there was plenty of brood.

Since honeybees are tropical/semitropical insects, it is also very easy to lose a hive over the long, cold winter. In the fact, the average annual winter loss in the United States is 38.7%! (This is another reason beginners should invest in more than one hive).

And just like with any other living thing, your bees can get sick. Bees face so many challenges in our polluted world. They have to fight off poisonous pesticides sprayed onto their food sources and they often lack proper nutrition due to field after field of monocrops. “It is estimated that 30 to 40 percent of colonies die from viruses, poor nutrition, and/or pesticides,” according to the book The Backyard Beekeeper, 4th Edition.

Now, I hope I haven’t discouraged you from beekeeping. I just wanted to be upfront about the cost of beekeeping, prepare you for the challenges you’ll face, and hopefully prevent you from beating yourself up if you do lose a hive. It happens to the very best beekeepers.

So, let’s move on to the numbers, shall we?

The Cost of Beekeeping in Canada

As with all things, there is more than one way to get started in beekeeping. I’m going to assume you are a small, backyard beekeeper like me. In this case, you obviously won’t be starting out with a hundred hives. So, let’s look at the cost of one hive.

The cost of bees

If you think you can catch a wild swarm (a large number of bees that leave a hive together to form a new colony elsewhere), your bees could be free. You may be really lucky and snag another local beekeeper’s bees if they happen to swarm in the spring. You can read about my experience catching a swarm here.

But I would recommend beginners purchase a nucleus colony (nuc) versus a package of bees or trying to catch a wild swarm.

A nuc is a small starter colony containing a laying queen and worker bees, as well as open and sealed brood (eggs, larvae, and pupae of honeybees), honey, and pollen. It usually contains four to six frames.

A nuc is the most expensive option of the three (nuc, package, or swarm), but the colony will have a higher chance of establishing itself the first season and surviving through winter compared to packaged bees. And a nuc is definitely easier than trying to catch a wild swarm especially if you’ve never even handled bees before.

Total cost of bees: $0 (catching a swarm) to $200 (purchasing a nuc)

The cost of a beehive

The costs in this category will fluctuate depending on which type of hive you decide to build/purchase. Here are my six secrets to choosing the best beehive for beginners.

A typical hive including a stand, frames, 3 boxes, roof, inner cover, screened bottom board and a couple of entrance reducers will set you back about $300 if you buy everything.

My hive is slightly more expensive at $377. I recommend you read my post about my beehive setup for an explanation of the hive parts and why I chose this type of hive. Here is the breakdown of the cost of the hive I use:

3 medium boxes ($25.35 each)
Pre-assembled frames ($3.50 each)
quilt box ($22.00)
roof ($54.95)
screened bottom board ($39.50)
slatted rack ($24.95)
hive stand (16.95)
2 entrance reducers ($4.75 each)

Total cost of beehives: $80 (if you build your own) to $327.90 (without tax)

BUYER BEWARE: You may be tempted to save money by buying used hives. But unless you know the beekeeper, are comfortable with their beekeeping practices, and can be sure the equipment is not contaminated with disease, this is not recommended. For example, American foulbrood (AFB), which has no cure, is the most serious and damaging brood disease of honey bees. It is caused by a spore-forming bacteria and it can contaminate beekeeping equipment. In order to prevent the spread to additional colonies, the equipment has to be destroyed.

The cost of beekeeping equipment (one-time costs)

Your one-time costs may be significantly less than what you see below. The majority of the money I spent in this category was on a full-body, bee suit. Why didn’t a buy a much cheaper veil or jacket? Simply because if I didn’t feel safe beekeeping, then I knew I wasn’t going to be keeping bees for very long. I feel completely protected in my suit. I would advise you to choose whatever option you feel safe in.

If you’re wondering what equipment you should purchase, check out my post – 7 must-have beekeeping tools.

– Smoker ($29.95)
– Bee suit ($235.75) or hat and veil combo ($27.95) or a bee jacket ($120)
– Hive tool ($12.95)
– Gloves ($32.95)
– Feeders ($15 each)

Total cost of beekeeping equipment: $118.80 to $326.60 (without tax)

Should you buy a honey extractor?

I didn’t include the price of a honey extractor in my one-time costs. I would suggest delaying this purchase. There is a good chance your bees won’t produce extra honey in your first year. And, even if they do, it likely won’t be enough to justify the cost of spending thousands of dollars on an extractor.

Instead, there are lots of tutorials on how to manually extract honey. You can also use foundationless frames and cut-out honeycomb. You basically cut the honeycomb from its frame and then into smaller pieces. Or you could ask to borrow another beekeeper’s equipment as I did.

The total cost of beekeeping:

The grand total (including a hive, bees, and supplies) is $200 (if you can catch a free swarm of bees and build your own hive) to $854.5 (without tax).

What is the start-up cost of beekeeping?

BUT WAIT! THAT’S NOT ALL!

Now, you probably won’t want to hear this, but I am going to tell you to spend even more money and buy two hives instead of one. Every beekeeping book and website I have ever read or visited has said the same thing and after beekeeping for 5 years, I agree with the experts. It is nice to have a second hive to compare to when you aren’t sure what is normal bee behavior or what the inside of a hive is supposed to look like.

So, if you do decide to purchase two hives, the total cost of beekeeping (if you buy everything) will now be between $1,100 to $1,400 (without tax).

Why you need to budget extra

Finally, with all this in mind, I want to warn you that extra expenses will creep up. For example, you will need to replace parts (frames get damaged). You may need to requeen, you may lose a hive tool in the grass and you will have to feed and at the very minimum treat your bees for those pesky Varroa Mites (tick-sized parasites that feed on bee blood).

Bee prepared and budget extra.

Yikes! That is a lot of money because…

YOUR FIRST YEAR
As mentioned above, your hive will likely not produce enough honey to share in its first year. At least not in my Canadian climate. So, you have just spent roughly $1,000 with no return. Your first year of beekeeping will be a rough one for your bank account.

YOUR SECOND YEAR
In your second year, your bees will likely produce a surplus of honey. In addition, you may be able to split your hives in two, creating nucs that you can keep if you have room in your bee yard and can afford to purchase more hives.

You can also decide to sell the extra nucs and earn a couple of hundred dollars from each. Although you will need to invest in a queen bee for each nuc (about $20 to $40 each).

So, what did I do to save money and lower the cost of beekeeping?

Beekeeping on a budget: Top 10 money-saving tips

Make your own hives

If you’re handy, try making your own hives. My dad made all my hives for me. The cost savings is huge! Instead of spending $300, you may only spend $80. I still buy pre-assembled frames as there is not much savings in making your own and it is a time-consuming job. Here are my actual start-up costs for one hive.

One beehive – $78.23
One nuc – $144.73
My one-time costs (smoker, full-body bee suit, gloves, hive tool, feeders) – $326
TOTAL: $548.96

Start small

You don’t have to invest in dozens of beehives. Start with two and get a feel for beekeeping and whether it will be something you enjoy before investing tonnes of money into it.

Don’t invest in an extractor right away

The first year I started beekeeping, our bees didn’t produce enough excess honey to extract anything. The second year, our two hives each produced a box of honey. Still not enough to warrant the cost of an extractor. A friend was kind enough to let us borrow a hand-crank machine, which did the trick.

There are lots of tutorials on how to manually extract honey. You can also use foundationless frames and cut-out honeycomb. You basically cut the honeycomb from its frame and then into smaller pieces. Or you could ask to borrow another beekeeper’s equipment as I did.

Buy a used extractor

I began my beekeeping adventures with a borrowed, hand crank extractor, and let me tell you…that got pretty unexciting very quickly. It was a sticky, messy job. And with my bee yard expanding every year, I knew I needed a better machine.

In the end, I decided to purchase a 20-frame radial extractor with a bottler. A radial machine extracts honey from both sides of your frames at once so you don’t have to turn them. Yes, I am a bit lazy and you may be thinking: what a waste of money! But trust me, once you’ve tried extracting honey the old-fashioned way, you’ll want to invest in this piece of equipment too.

A new machine would have cost us over $6,000 plus shipping. We scored this used machine on Kijiji for $2,000 from a woman who had only used it twice. It is basically a brand new extractor. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a place prepared to house said machine so it has been sitting in our living room all winter. A honey house is still on the project list. Sigh.

Split your hives

If your bees make it through winter in great numbers, you can split them in the spring! You can either keep them to grow your bee business or sell your newly established nucs for roughly $200 apiece. You will, of course, need to invest in a queen (roughly $20 to $40).

Buy only what you need

Don’t be lured into purchasing 10,000 extra beekeeping “essentials”. Know the items you will really need and use. Check out my list of essential equipment here.

DIY Beehive Insulation

Last year, we saved money on insulating our hives by using free maple leaves to keep our bees toasty warm throughout the winter. Check out my post here.

Make money from your bees

Many commercial beekeepers make a profit by selling not only honey but other bee products: propolis, royal jelly, wax, pollen, and even venom, or by renting out their bee colonies for crop pollination. Still, others specialize in the breeding and sale of queens and replacement stock. Eventually, you could also offer beekeeping classes or educational tours.

Hint: If you’re looking to make money from your bees, there is likely more profit in selling bees, queens, and nucleus colonies, as opposed to selling honey.

Read, read, and then read some more

Learn as much as you can about bees and beekeeping. You can save yourself hundreds of dollars by learning from other people’s mistakes. So read the beekeeping catalogs, several of which are free, as well as the many great beekeeping books available at your library.

Out of all the beekeeping books I’ve read, Kim Flottom’s are my favourites. No, not because we share the same first name. Because he is not only incredibly knowledgeable, but he includes the wisdom of many, many other beekeepers making his books a real treasure trove of information. Check out his many titles starting with “The Backyard Beekeeper” if you are a beginner. I also own “The Beekeeper’s Journal” and I just bought “In Business with Bees“.

But don’t just read…

Join your local beekeeping association/club and find a bee buddy

What are you going to do when your hive swarms (this can happen in your first year as it did to me)? Are you going to be able to identify a queen bee from a drone bee? Who are you are going to call to walk you through your first hive inspection? This is where your local beekeeping association and mentor step in. They will help you become successful!

You can learn so much more from beekeepers who have been keeping bees much longer than I have and who have hundreds of more colonies. Offer to help them in the bee yard in exchange for some mentoring. Just like any other farming endeavor, the knowledge, experience, and assistance of an experienced beekeeper will save you from making many mistakes.

So, now that you know the cost of beekeeping, will you still take up the craft? Let me know what you think and if you found this helpful.

PIN IT FOR LATER – THE REAL COST OF BEEKEEPING

The best FREE DIY Beehive Insulation for Winter

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Using leaves as beehive insulation for winter

There must be a better way! That is my husband’s motto.

Sounds great, right? But this kind of thinking usually ends with our projects taking five million times longer to complete and me pulling my hair out exasperatedly and wondering…why the heck can’t we just do things the way everyone else does?

But today I’m eating my words. Because this cheap, DIY beehive insulation for winter is genius – leaves. Last year, we used free maple leaves to keep our bees toasty warm throughout the winter and they SURVIVED.

This will be the second winter we will be trialing leaves as our beehive insulation and we will update this page as we continue our test. If you’re interested in more ways to save money beekeeping, check out “BEE”WARE: THE REAL COST OF BEEKEEPING & HOW TO SAVE MONEY“.

Why do honeybees need protection from the cold?

Not all do. It depends on where you live. Honeybees originate from Africa. Although they spread north over time to some of the colder regions of Europe and Asia, they have not genetically adapted to the long, cold Canadian -40 degree C winters. So, as their caretakers, it is our solemn duty to protect them and I take this seriously.

Except for last year. I failed two of my newly split hives that I kept at my parent’s house. I still feel guilty and ashamed. Although I protected the outsides like all the rest of my hives, I forgot to place the insulation in the top cover. I couldn’t understand why two brand new hives with plenty of winter stores would perish in the cold. Until I looked inside the cover. Stupid! Yup, still kicking myself in the butt.

Do leaves really insulate?

What does Mother Nature use to insulate? Leaves. A thick blanket of leaves protects plants from the winter cold. But what you may not have realized is that they can also be used to protect your bees from the frigid winter temperatures. Last year, we experimented with using leaves around four of our beehives with excellent results.

The R-Value of fresh leaves (I couldn’t find one for dried) is about 0.54 (per inch) using the calculations from this study. To increase the thermal resistance, we made a thick, 1.5-foot wall of leaves, which results in an R-Value of about 9.65.

But leaves have an even greater superpower. They have a high heat capacity or thermal mass (similar to that of water), according to this study from the Journal of Biotechnology. This means they are able to buffer the bees from extreme temperature changes. Leaves hold onto heat, whether generated by the sun or from the bees flexing their wing muscles inside the hive to keep warm throughout the winter. The leaves hold onto this heat and slowly release it. Some heat may also be generated from the ground where we observed some decomposition.

Although there are many other methods you can use to successfully insulate your hives, we are really impressed with leaves for two reasons:

1. They are free.
2. They are compostable and sustainable.

How to use leaves as beehive insulation for winter

Step 1

Ensure you don’t have any open cracks and crevices in your hives and that they are properly ventilated. If warm, moist air can’t escape from your hive, it will condense on the bottom side of the inner cover and drip cold water onto your bees. We use both an upper entrance and a quilt box on all our hives. You can read more about our beehive set up here.

It’s also beneficial to have some sort of windbreak – this could be a fence, bushes, or plastic sheet.

Step 2

Surround your hives with several wooden stakes. Hammer them into the ground about 1.5 feet from the hives.

Step 3

Staple Tyvek building wrap to the stakes.

Step 4

Fill the area between the hives and the Tyvek wrap with dry leaves (you do not want to use wet leaves that will mat together). Although we used whole leaves, shredded leaves may work even better to create fluffier, air-filled layers.

WARNING: The leaves will settle over time so make sure to add about a foot extra and then check on the hives every so often to ensure they remain covered.

Step 5

Ensure the bees can get in and out of the hive by extending the bee’s entrance. We used a piece of wood as the base and then covered it with wire mesh to make a tunnel.

Step 6

Cover the top of the hives with a plastic sheet to ensure the leaves don’t get wet. We used a clear, plastic sheet, but would like to try a black plastic to help absorb more of the sun’s heat.

Don’t forget about spring feedings

If you have to emergency feed in early spring, you have to be able to take your insulation apart. Be prepared for this by ensuring you can easily remove the plastic sheet on top of the hives and remove your hive rooves.

So, what do you think of this idea? Will you try using leaves as your beehive insulation for winter? Let me know in the comments.

Want to save more money beekeeping?

If you’re interested in more ways to save money beekeeping, check out my post: “BEE”WARE: THE REAL COST OF BEEKEEPING & HOW TO SAVE MONEY“.

PIN IT FOR LATER

A thick layer of leaves not only protects plants from the winter cold but bees too. Here's how to use free leaves as your beehive insulation.

The 7 Must-Have Hive Tools

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(and that time I scalped myself)

I didn’t bother to put on my veil. This was my first mistake.

It was hot and I loved the feel of the light breeze teasing my hair and cooling my neck. I was cleaning around the bee yard and placing pails of sugar water into the hives that nearly starved over the long winter. It was easy work and I was enjoying listening to the song of the bees… – until that rhythmic hum started echoing a little too close to my ear. A bee had accidentally blown into my tangled locks. Of course, it got stuck.

Now, before we continue with this story, you should know that I hate being stung. During my first hive inspection, I flinched so many times my beekeeping mentor had to tell me several times to stop moving or I really was going to get stung.

So, my first instinct was to get that bee out of my hair as fast as I could before it panicked and jabbed me with its stinger in frustration. I had my hive tool in hand so I thought I’d use that to help free it.

Let’s pause for a moment. I decided to use a sharp, metal object to get a bee out of my hair. Yes, you guessed right. This was my second mistake.

I may have freed the bee, but I also scalped myself. I thought I had been stung but when I reached up to touch my head, I found blood. Fortunately, I didn’t cut off any of my hair but my head was definitely cut and remained sore for the next couple days.

So, it will come as no surprise that the very top item on my list of essential hive tools is a full body, bee suit including a veil, which you should ALWAYS wear.

As I mentioned before, I really don’t like being stung (it has only happened twice in four years) so I not only like to feel protected while I work my hives, but I also like to work them quickly and efficiently with as little disruption as possible.

With that in mind, these are my favourite hive tools.

Take a peek inside my toolbox – my favourite hive tools

The Bee Suit (or my superhero, alien costume)

I love my bee suit so much I leave it hung on my coat hanger year-round. Or maybe I’m just too lazy to put it away. But either way I do enjoy wearing it. I feel like a superhero about to embark on an exciting discovery every time I begin putting it on. It’s my uniform and it’s my protection so I invested in the very best.

Although there are many bees suit options out there, I suggest a full body, ventilated suit like mine, which will keep you well-protected and cool even on the hottest days. Many beekeepers simply don a veil or bee jacket. This is fine too as long as you feel comfortable. Whatever you do, don’t wear any dark clothing that makes you resemble a bear. Also, don’t forget to seal your pant legs tight or you may find yourself doing a painful dance around the bee yard.

Warning!

Wash your bee suit frequently. You don’t want any alarm pheromone to build up on your clothes or your hive’s guard bees will likely pay you an unwanted visit.

Gloves

Gloves may make you feel safer when you are working your hives but they are also cumbersome and remove all feeling from your fingers. This could lead to you accidentally squishing a bee.

Instead, you may want to skip gloves or at the very least choose a pair that fit well. Personally, I still recommend buying and wearing gloves – especially if the bees are having a cranky day.

The Smoker

I admit that I didn’t think I’d use a smoker. I just didn’t like the idea of smoking my bees. It sounds cruel. But I’ve changed my mind. Next to my bee suit, my smoker has become my favourite beekeeping tool.

Just a few puffs of smoke will calm, quiet and move your bees out of your way allowing you to do your job faster and more easily. No matter which size or model you purchase, ensure it has a protective shield on the outside. It will save your hands from being burned. Or at least help prevent getting them burned. Somehow, I still manage to touch it on occasion.

Bonus: Some models come with a hook that you can hang on the side of your hive.

The Hive Tool

You can’t work bees without a hive tool. In fact, it is so essential I recommend buying two just in case you lose one in the grass. Hey, it happens to the best beekeepers.

I use my hive tool every time I inspect my hives. Why? Because bees stick everything together with a magic glue called propolis. Without my hive tool it would be extremely difficult to pull the frames or boxes apart. A hive tool comes with a flat blade on one end that I use to scrape burr comb and separate frames and a rounded end that I use to lift up the frames.

The Frame Holder

I’m not sure why more beekeepers don’t use this convenient tool. A frame holder simply hangs on the side of your super. It gives you an easy, safe and out-of-the-way spot to hang a frame when you want to remove one from the box you are working in. I always remove one frame from the outside edge of my hive box before I do an inspection in order to make room to examine the remaining frames.

Pro tip: Make sure the queen is not on the frame you place on the holder. You don’t want her to fly away.

Beekeeper’s Toolbox

My dad made this toolbox for me and I love it. As you can see, there is a place to hang my smoker and I can put all my hive tools in the main compartment. Every time I head out to the apiary, I just grab my toolbox knowing I have everything I need.

Feeders

I made the mistake of not buying a feeder my first year beekeeping. That summer we had a nectar dearth. I had no idea we were having one or what exactly that was but my mentor advised me to start feeding my bees. I now know a nectar dearth is when there is a shortage of nectar producing flowers often caused by an excessive amount of hot, dry weather. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a feeder and when I went to the store they were, of course, completely sold out. I was lucky and my mentor lent me a few.

Learn from my mistake and purchase a few feeders to have on hand when your little bee friends need your help. I have tried many different types of feeders but this simple bucket feeder has turned out to be the simplest to use. I also like the fact that they are placed inside my hives so my colonies don’t fight or rob food from each other.

BONUS ITEM! Beekeeper’s Journal

A journal is not necessary, but it has come in handy as my apiary has expanded. The best way to keep track of inspections, observations and your to-do lists is to write them down. I love this journal.

The truth is you don’t need many tools to be a beekeeper (other than perhaps the ability to laugh at yourself!), but if you want to work your bees more easily, efficiently, quickly and safely, you’ll definitely want to stock up on these hive tools.

Of course, when it comes time to extract honey, you’ll need a couple more hive tools. But that’s a post for another day. It’s time for me to head down to the apiary with my bee suit (including the veil) on and maybe this time I will avoid scalping myself.

So, do you agree? What are you favourite hive tools? Let me know in the comments below.

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7 must-have beekeeping tools — You don’t want to waste money on needless hive tools. So, what do you really need to work your bees quickly, efficiently and safely?

Six secrets to choosing the best beehive for beginners

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So you’ve decided to get into beekeeping, but now you are faced with the big decision – What is the best beehive for beginners?

Choosing a hive will likely be the costliest decision you will ever make as a beekeeper. However, it is almost impossible to find a group of beekeepers who will all agree on the same setup. Why?

Every beekeeper lives in a different climate. Every beekeeper has different goals. Every beekeeper has different preferences.

And once a beekeeper invests money into their setup, it’s rare for them to change it. It would be too costly.

So, what is the best beehive for beginners? Here are my six secrets to choosing a hive:

How to choose the best beehive for beginners

Secret #1 – Combine the best of both worlds

Instead of using a Langstroth or a Warre hive, why not combine the best elements of both?

When I was doing my beehive research, I stumbled upon The Beecentric Hives built in Edmonton, Alberta by Dustin Bajer. He took the most beneficial aspects of both the Langstroth and Warre hives and combined them into what I think is the ultimate hive. Unfortunately, at the time, he didn’t ship his beehives so my dad volunteered to come up with his own version of the Beecentric Hive. Here’s how you can easily put one together:

Secret #2 – Use All Medium Langstroth Supers

I use standard Langstroth brood boxes and supers (supers are boxes containing honey). Although they are available in deep, medium and shallow sizes, my second secret is to use only mediums. This makes it easier when it comes time to split hives (making a second bee colony from your existing hive usually to prevent swarming or as mite control). I can easily transfer frames of brood and honey from one box to another saving me time and the expense of keeping different sized boxes. I have heard from some beekeepers that if they could start beekeeping all over again, they would choose all mediums for this reason.

Bonus: Medium boxes are lighter! They weigh between 40 and 50 lbs as opposed to 79 and 90 lbs for ten-frame deep supers. I like to think of myself as a strong woman, but it would be impossible for me to handle 100 lb boxes without doing some serious damage to my back.

Secret #3 – Use 8-frame equipment

Most brood boxes or supers contain 10 individual frames. However, I chose boxes that fit 8 frames. This may sound like a bad deal but I prefer the narrower supers that house only 8 frames. Why? I was inspired by my mentor, George Wheatley of Doré Products in New Brunswick, who has been keeping bees for 40 years. His bees fare better in 8-frame equipment throughout our bitterly, freezing Canadian winters.

You may have heard of bees starving over the winter in 10-frame equipment even though there is still honey remaining in the last two outer frames. For reasons I’m not 100 per cent sure of, bees often opt to move up to the next box stacked on top before consuming those last two frames of honey. It may be that the bees can’t break out of their warm cluster to reach those outer frames. I believe the narrower 8-frame equipment is better sized to the tightly knit, overwintering cluster of bees.

The 8-frame equipment is also better sized to me. Because there are 8 and not 10 frames per box, these supers are even lighter than the medium deeps I mentioned above. Medium 8-frame supers clock in at 35 lbs (16 kg) or less. So, for anyone out there who was thinking they couldn’t get into beekeeping because of the heavy lifting, you’ll need to find another excuse.

*A slatted rack has many benefits including raising the brood box from the hive entrance.*

Secret #4: Use a slatted rack

When I say the word “slatted rack” even among some beekeepers, no one seems to know what I’m talking about. I think this piece of equipment is one of beekeeping’s best kept secrets.

A slatted rack, like the name suggests, has wooden slats that run parallel to your frames. It fits on top of your bottom board, raising the brood box (where the Queen lays her eggs and raises young bees) from the hive entrance. Why is this beneficial? During the dog days of summer when you will often find bees congregating outside the hive because it is too warm in the hive, the extra space the slatted rack provides allows the bees to hang out in the safety of their home and fan cool air into the hive.

My queen also lays her eggs all the way to the bottom of the frames using a slatted rack. Most likely because even on cool days, the eggs and larvae are still far enough away to be protected from the drafty entrance.

During the winter, the extra air space the slatted rack provides also acts as an insulating layer between the cool bottom board and the brood box.

*All my beehives have a screened bottom board with a removable insert to help control varroa mites and increase ventilation in the hive.*

Secret #5: Choose a screened bottom board

There are two types of bottom boards – solid and screened. All my beehives have a screened bottom board with a removable insert, which you can coat with a sticky substance such as cooking spray. The purpose of the screen is to allow Varroa Mites, tick sized parasites that feed on bee blood, to fall through the wire mesh as the bees clean the hive and groom each other.

The insects then get stuck on the insert allowing you to estimate how many mites are in your hive. Varroa mites can easily take down a hive. If you have too many, you will need to treat your hive or risk losing it.

Secret #6: Cover your bees with a Warre Hive Roof and Quilt Box

If you have been researching how to choose the best beehive, you have probably stumbled upon the Warre Hive. This vertical top bar hive has a unique sloped roof that fits over what is called a “quilt box” (basically a box filled with wood shavings). Although I use wood shavings during the summer, in the winter I also add a piece of Rockwool insulation to keep the bees extra toasty. The quilt box not only insulates the hive, but it prevents moisture from building up and dripping down onto the bees and killing them.

The bottom of the quilt box is made of wire mesh. This allows air to flow, but it also gives the bees the ability to add or remove propolis (what I like to call “bee glue”) to regulate the airflow themselves.

Buyer beware: When you are inspecting your hive, you can easily set your equipment on top of a traditional, flat Langstroth telescoping outer cover. You definitely can’t do this with a sloped roof. Instead, I use an extra super to hold my equipment.

I hope these tips help you in your quest to finding the perfect home for your little bee friends. I would also suggest joining your local beekeeping association and speaking with other beekeepers in your area who will be able to provide even more insight on how to choose the best beehive for beginners or perhaps even let you try out a top bar or another different style of hive.

Happy bee house hunting!

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Want to read more about bees? Check out some of my previous posts…

The Bees are Coming…
Why You’d Make a Great Beekeeper (and the benefits of beekeeping)
How to Catch a Swarm of Honeybees…
How to Find the Queen Bee…
Healing Honey Hand Salve (and how to render beeswax)

If you have more questions about choosing the best beehive for beginners, please leave a comment below and I will be happy to help you.

Top 10 Surprising Benefits of Beekeeping: Why You’d Make a Great Beekeeper

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Benefits of beekeeping

Do you like to eat?

Yes? I knew it. You were meant to be a beekeeper. Loving food is a sure sign that you should keep bees.

What? You don’t agree? Well, without bees to pollinate our crops, a third of our food would disappear.

And let’s be honest. Who wants to eat nachos without salsa or toast without jam? That would be tragic, right? And that’s why we desperately need bees and people who love food to be beekeepers.

Still not convinced? Here are my top 10 benefits of beekeeping and why you should keep bees or have a beekeeper like myself install a hive in your backyard.

Top 10 Benefits of Beekeeping

Happiness

Do you like to be happy? Aha! I’ve found another reason you’d be a great beekeeper. We’ve all heard that “more stuff” doesn’t bring happiness (at least after you’ve met your basic needs). So, what will really make you smile? Experiences. Interesting experiences will boost your happiness and bring more meaning to your life. That’s right. Bees will do all this for you. Because I can’t think of a more amazing and mind-expanding experience than opening a hive of bees and watching thousands of these important pollinators at work. I can guarantee it will be an experience unlike any you’ve had before.

Stress Relief

Feeling a little stressed out? It seems that every time I turn around someone is touting the benefits of mediation from reducing stress to improving sleep and increasing happiness. So, of course, I tried it. And guess what? It doesn’t work for me. But that’s ok. I can do something just as good for my health – open a hive. If that doesn’t force you to live in the moment, I don’t know what will. So, you want to be more mindful? You want to focus? You want to achieve mental clarity and stay calm? Open a hive containing 60,000 bees. Trust me. You won’t be able to focus on anything except your every movement, the busy hum of the bees and the intoxicating smell of honey and beeswax.

In my opinion, there is no better way to be in the here and now, fully engaged in the activity at hand. And it all ends with honey. Now that is my kind of meditation. We homesteaders don’t have time to waste. We like our meditation to be productive. So, take a deep breath, centre yourself and get a hive of bees.

Fun

Can you think of anything more fun and exciting than dressing up like an alien and watching bees dance? Ok, maybe you can. But beekeeping is a lot of fun. Really! Once you get over the fear of being stung, you will realize that bees are actually very gentle, curious and fascinating creatures. In fact, the more I study them, the more I am amazed. In case you are curious, yes, bees can dance. This is one of the ways they communicate to other bees where and how far a source of nectar is located.

Honey…and lots of friends

You thought this was going to be first on my list of the benefits of beekeeping, didn’t you? But here’s a little secret of mine. I actually don’t like honey. That’s right. I have seven hives with plans to expand even more this spring and I’m not crazy about honey. But I do like to bake with it. Honey is the special ingredient that makes the most delicious and moist breads, cakes, muffins, pies and jam.

But it turns out that most people do love this liquid gold and are eager to get their hands on a jar of local, raw honey. In fact, you will be excited to discover that honey from your own hives actually tastes different and much more delicious in my humble opinion than what you can buy in the store. Just like the veggies that come from your own garden. So, don’t be surprised when your extended family, friends and neighbours suddenly take new interest in you.

Bonus: This sweet treat is one of the only foods that never spoils. A pot of honey found in an ancient Egyptian tomb was proved to be as wholesome as fresh honey.

Of course, honey has many other uses than just as a food, which brings us to the next benefit of beekeeping:

Your Health

Having local, raw honey is like having your own secret superpower. Do you have a cough or sore throat? Honey can help treat it. Do you have a cut? Honey can help heal it faster. Do you suffer from seasonal allergy symptoms? Honey can help reduce your symptoms. Honey is a powerful remedy.

That being said, I wouldn’t advise eating jars of it unless you are Winnie the Pooh. Honey is still sugar. But it is healthier and easier to digest than cane sugar. It contains high levels of antioxidants that fight oxidative stress and inflammation as well as trace amounts of vitamins, minerals, electrolytes, enzymes, amino acids and flavonoids. To be honest, I have no idea what a flavonoid is, but apparently honey has it, and it’s good for you. So, go ahead and add a heaping spoonful to your cup of tea.

Caution: Honey is not suitable for children under the age of one.

Honey Wine (Mead)

Did you know you can ferment your own sweet honey-based wine using raw honey? I didn’t. I had never even heard of mead until I went to speak at a Mother Earth News Fair. Jereme Zimmerman gave a talk on using wild yeast to create wild-fermented mead and my mind was blown. Check out his book, Make Mead Like a Viking. Or better yet, visit him at one of the upcoming fairs and try your hand at making mead during one of his workshops.

Beeswax

Forget about commercial products! You can make your own cosmetics, salves, creams, lotions and lip balms with wax from your own bees. Of course, you can also make candles, beeswax wraps, deodorant, soap and so much more. If you are a DIY like me, having your own source of beeswax is a must and a huge benefit of beekeeping.

A Productive Garden

Are you a gardener? Then raise your hand if you like having a productive vegetable garden? A backyard beehive is your answer to a great harvest. Bees pollinate blooms within a five-mile radius of their hive. Without them, your garden may look healthy and lush, but you won’t be harvesting basketfuls of your favourite veggies. And if you happen to have a fruit tree or a berry patch, the more bees that visit your plants, the better the size and amount of fruit they will produce.

Bees are the easiest livestock to keep

So far, my bees have been the easiest livestock to care for on the homestead. I don’t have to feed and water them every day. I don’t have to clean up after them. I don’t have to trim their hooves or keep them contained. And for several months of the year, I don’t have to do anything at all. Most of the work is done in the early spring when you are first getting set up or splitting hives and requeening. During the summer, most of the work is simply ensuring the bees have enough room to expand and that there are no diseases in the hive. Work picks up again in the fall when it is time to harvest honey and close up the hives for the winter.

Bees are a great conversation starter

Beekeeping is the most popular topic on my blog. It is also a fascinating topic for discussion whenever I first meet people. Let’s be honest. Most people think I’m crazy but they are always eager to learn more about bees and the benefits of beekeeping. And, of course, if I have honey for sale.

There are many, many more benefits of beekeeping. But I’m wrapping this post up because I’m now eager to go outside and check on my own busy bees. How about you? Do you want to venture into the heart of a hive? Are you eager to try beekeeping? Let me know in the comments below or feel free to ask me questions. I’m sure you’d make a great beekeeper!

PS. Beekeeping is not dangerous (unless you have an allergy)

If you have an allergy to bee stings, beekeeping can be dangerous. Fatal reactions are rare but it can happen. One of the first things I suggest you do before getting into beekeeping is to ensure you are not allergic

Otherwise, you will discover that honeybees are not aggressive. They are actually very passive creatures. But they will defend themselves if they feel threatened. So far, I have only been stung twice in four years. Stay tuned for another article on “how not to get stung”.

Want to read more about bees and the benefits of beekeeping?
Check out some of my previous posts…

The Bees are Coming…
How to Catch a Swarm of Honeybees…
How to Find the Queen Bee…
Healing Honey Hand Salve (and how to render beeswax)

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Why should you keep bees? What are the benefits of beekeeping? Here are the top ten benefits of having a hive in your backyard. You may be surprised - there are many more benefits than just honey!

How to find the Queen bee OR Where’s Waldo?

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Skip to: HOW TO IDENTIFY YOUR QUEEN BEE IN FIVE STEPS

I had only been beekeeping a couple of months when I suddenly needed to find my queen bee and fast. I had no idea what I was doing. So it’s not surprising that half of my bees decided they had had enough of me and were leaving the hive I had bought for them.

But I was smarter – or so I like to think. Because I caught those trouble-making bees and put them in a new home. There was just one problem. In the commotion of catching those rogue bees, there was a chance the Queen had died. Without a Queen my whole hive was dead. The Queen is the only bee who can lay fertile eggs. So I needed to find my Queen. But…

**Do you really need to find the Queen bee?**

Most likely, no.

If you see eggs, then you know the Queen was on duty at least 3 days ago.

See those tiny white things floating in these bee cells? Those are bee eggs. They are very tiny, but if you can spot them, you know the Queen was alive at least 3 days ago.

Of course, honey bee eggs are tiny. They are about 1 to 1.5 mm long, which is approximately half the size of a grain of rice. If you need help you finding honey bee eggs, buy yourself a pair of reading glasses and wear them when you inspect the hive. Then hold your frame so the sun shines into the bottom of the cells and you should be able to easily spot them.

But if you can’t see the eggs, look for larvae – pearly white, slug-like (sorry bees!), C-shaped forms in the cells. Larvae only stays uncapped for about 8 days so if you can see those baby bees, you know the Queen was alive and well at least 8 days ago. In case you are wondering… It takes 21 days to go from fertilized egg to worker bee.

Baby bees (larvae) is a sign that your Queen may still be alive. Larvae stays uncapped for about 8 days so if you see these baby bees, you know the Queen was alive and well at least 11 days ago.

Fun fact – The Queen bee can lay between 1,500 eggs and 2000 eggs a day. Long live the Queen!

However, in my case, I did want to confirm my Queen was alive and maybe you have a good reason too. Perhaps you’re splitting your hive (making a second bee colony from your existing beehive usually to prevent swarming) or maybe you want to impress your neighbors with your Queen finding skills.

Marked versus an unmarked Queen – and what the heck is that?

First of all, spotting the Queen among 40,000 other bees who look almost identical is tricky, but it’s even more difficult when you have an “unmarked Queen” (a “marked Queen” has a dab of paint on the top center of her thorax).

Without that marking, it is REALLY hard for newbees like myself to find the Queen. It’s like a “Where’s Waldo” every time you open the hive – only Waldo moves.

A marked queen has a dab of paint on the top centre of her thorax. Without that marking, it is REALLY hard for newbees like myself to find the Queen.

But it’s not impossible to find her and it’s a good skill to learn because…guess what?

The mark on the Queen can wear off, another bee could hide the mark from your view or, just like my colony, they could swarm and the old hive will raise a new, unmarked Queen.

How to find the Queen bee in 5 steps

Me carefully pulling out frames to have a look for the Queen.

Step 1: Start with the outermost frame

I always check my hives starting with the outermost frame. After removing that very first outer frame, always ensure the Queen isn’t on it and then you can set it aside or place it on a hive rack (I use one like this, which is similar to the one you see me using in the above photo)

By setting aside the first frame, you have more room to work so you don’t accidentally smush the Queen bee as you inspect the other frames.

Step 2: Check each individual frame

As you check the other frames, replace each one back in the hive leaving a space between the ones you’ve checked and haven’t checked so the Queen can’t go where you’ve already inspected.

Of course, always check both sides of the frames before gently putting each one back down into the hive.

Don’t drop the Queen bee on the ground!
When checking your frames, always hold them above your boxes so if the Queen falls, she doesn’t land on the ground. You want her to fall right back in the hive.

Step 3: Pay extra attention to frames with brood

I was told by my mentor that my Queen would likely be in the middle of one of the centre frames that contain brood (baby bees). Spoiler alert – That is exactly where I found her.

Your Queen bee will likely be in the centre of one of the frames in the middle of your box. This is where the brood (baby bees) will be and where there is brood, there is likely a Queen nearby.

Warning – The Queen can move quickly and will often dart towards the dark side of the frame. So you’ll have to learn to check your frames quickly.

Here is a drone (male) bee hatching. Isn’t he so cute who those big eyes?

Step 4: Look for something out of the ordinary

As the Queen crawls around, the other worker bees will move out of her way. The Queen also has her own entourage of maids who feed and care for her every need. The Queen’s only job is to lay eggs.

So you may notice a circle of bees surrounding another bee. Take a closer look at that bee because you’ve probably just found your Queen.

See how similar the Queen looks to all the other bees? Finding her is not an easy task for a beginner.

Step 5: Look for the BIG bee

The Queen bee is bigger or at least longer and narrower than any other bee in the hive. Just don’t mistake a male bee (drone) for the Queen. Here’s how to tell the difference.

What does the Queen bee look like?

At first, I mistook the male bees (drones) for the Queen as they are bigger than the numerous female worker bees.

The difference is that drones have big eyes and a large, blunt-body whereas the queen is long with a tapered hind end allowing her to reach the bottom of the cells when she lays eggs.

Look at the size of a drone’s (male bee) eyes. The Queen and worker bees have much smaller eyes. But the drone needs his big eyes to spot the Queen when she takes her mating flight.

Notice how the Queen’s abdomen (lower part of her body near the stinger) is pointed.

Be patient

Finding your Queen bee takes practice – one of the reasons new beekeepers often have to check their hives more often than an experienced beekeeper. I can’t say I’m an expert at finding the Queen bee because it still takes me forever scanning my eyes back and forth in rows across each and every frame, but with a little time, I can spot her.

And yes, I still get excited and give out a loud, nerdy beekeeper squeal each time I find her.

Happy Queen Spotting!

Looking for more information on how to find a queen bee? Check out QueenSpotting by Hilary Kearney.

Want to read more about bees and beekeeping? Check out some of my previous posts…

The Bees are Coming…
Why You’d Make a Great Beekeeper (and the benefits of keeping bees)
How to Catch a Swarm of Honeybees…
Healing Honey Hand Salve (and how to render beeswax)

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How to catch a bee swarm for beginners

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52 Homesteading Skills in One Year Project #29: How to catch a bee swarm

This was NOT supposed to be one of the 52 skills I learned this year. My bees were NOT supposed to try and run away from home.

And so I wasn’t prepared when, much to my horror and dismay, I discovered a bee swarm perched over 20 feet high in a Maple tree.

I’ll be honest. I completely panicked. I knew I needed help and I was extremely fortunate my uncle lived nearby.

A bee swarm in a tree — **My swarm of bees perched over 20 feet high in a Maple tree. The bees are clustered around their queen by hanging onto one another’s arms and legs.**

Unfortunately, he didn’t have any more experience with a bee swarm than I did. But he wasn’t worried. He had watched a YouTube video explaining how to do it.

A VIDEO.

We were going to learn how to catch the bee swarm based on the instructions from a YouTube special.

I knew this wasn’t good. But what choice did I have? I had a bee swarm in my front yard and I needed to get them in a hive fast before they moved on to their unknown-to-me destination and I lost them – and my investment.

So I thanked my uncle for his help (I owe you BIG TIME) and we hatched up a plan.

Are you ready for this highly thought out, well developed strategy?

Here it goes: My uncle was going to climb a ladder to cut the branch the bees were resting on. I was to stay on the ground and catch the branch.

That’s right. I was going to catch a falling bee swarm.

This just proves how badly I wanted to get my bees back. And yes, I did have doubts about our plan and yes, I reeeaaaally wished I was the one cutting the branch. But hey, beekeeping is not for the faint of heart. As they say – Your passion better burn brighter than your fears.

So I thanked my lucky stars that I had invested in the full body bee suit and mentally prepared myself for the worst.

The good news is I caught the branch.

A swarm of bees falling from a tree — ***The remaining bees still attached to the branch after falling from the tree. The majority of the bees landed on the ground in a giant puddle.***

The bads news is there was an accident mid-air and about 90 per cent of the bees fell to the ground in a giant, buzzing puddle. Only a few, well attached stragglers remained on the branch I was holding.

Of course, this didn’t happen on the YouTube video. So we resorted to improvisation.

My uncle had an empty hive he had brought over. We tipped it on its side next to the bees prepared to brush, shovel or scoop them inside.

But we didn’t have to do any of that. As if by magic, they all started to make their way into the hive.

A swarm of bees crawling into their new home — ***The bees following their queen into their new hive.***

You may now call me “The Bee Whisperer”. I’m thinking of starting a swarm catching sideline business. What do you think?

One week has now passed since the swarming incident and I am happy to report those rogue bees have decided to stay put in their new hive. I am told that after you catch a bee swarm, they can still decide to leave the hive up until they have mature brood (baby bees). This can take a week so it’s best not to disturb the hive before then.

Bees in their new home — ***I now have three hives. Hopefully at least one of them will make it through the winter.***

I am also now much more educated on bee swarms thanks to some late night research. Let me now fill you in on some of the blanks in my story.

Why did the bees swarm?

It is most likely because I wasn’t quick enough to give them another box. The bees probably felt like they were running out of room and decided to solve the problem by swarming.

What happens when the bees swarm?

Half of your bees leave the hive with the queen. The remaining bees raise a new queen and stay put in the hive.

Tip: Swarms will often take frequent, short rests on their way to their new home because the queen bee is a poor flyer. In fact, she is put on a diet leading up to swarm day.

Why do you think the bee swarm went willingly into the hive?

Although I wish I had some kind of bee superpower it is mostly likely because the queen had fallen into the box and the other bees were following her. As long as you catch the queen, you’ve caught the whole swarm. So if you catch a bee swarm and they all fly out of the hive, it is because you didn’t get the queen. Keep trying.

Why didn’t the bees attack you?

Bee swarms are almost always docile. Why? I’m not sure. I’ve read it is because they are so full of honey stores, they can’t be bothered. You know how you feel after second helpings of Christmas dinner? I’ve also heard it is because they have nothing (brood, honey, home) to defend.

So now that I’ve successfully caught a bee swarm, if you happen to need one removed from your area, you can give me a call and I’ll help. I’ll climb up the ladder and cut the branch they are perched on and you can stay on the ground and catch them. Sound good?

Note: The uncle in this story is not my biological uncle, but my childhood best friend’s uncle. However, I’ve called him uncle ever since I can remember. Today, he is also my brave and helpful neighbor who keeps bees and enjoys watching YouTube videos.

Want to read more about bees? Check out some of my previous posts…

How to Find the Queen Bee…
Healing Honey Hand Salve (and how to render beeswax)
“BEE”WARE: THE REAL COST OF BEEKEEPING & HOW TO SAVE MONEY
THE BEST FREE DIY BEEHIVE INSULATION
The Bees are Coming…
The Benefits of Beekeeping
Six Secrets to Choosing the Best Beehive for Beginners
The 7 Must-Have Hive Tools

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#1. Drones bee livin’ their best life

#2. A drone bee can have sex in the air

#3. Drone honeybees baffle beekeepers and scientists alike

#4. The male honeybee’s ejaculation is so strong, humans can hear it

#5. A drone bee’s penis explodes after mating

#6. Drone bees are starved and tossed out of the hive

#7. Drone bees are cheerleaders

#8. A drone bee produces one and half times as much heat as worker bees

#9. A drone bee can’t sting

#10. Drone bees are fatherless…but they have a grandfather

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Is it possible to start beekeeping without spending a massive amount of money?

The Cost of Beekeeping in Canada

The cost of bees

The cost of a beehive

The cost of beekeeping equipment (one-time costs)

Should you buy a honey extractor?

The total cost of beekeeping:

BUT WAIT! THAT’S NOT ALL!

Why you need to budget extra

Yikes! That is a lot of money because…

Beekeeping on a budget: Top 10 money-saving tips

Make your own hives

Start small

Don’t invest in an extractor right away

Buy a used extractor

Split your hives

Buy only what you need

DIY Beehive Insulation

Make money from your bees

Read, read, and then read some more

Join your local beekeeping association/club and find a bee buddy

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Why do honeybees need protection from the cold?

Do leaves really insulate?

How to use leaves as beehive insulation for winter

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Don’t forget about spring feedings

Want to save more money beekeeping?

Read more about bees:

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(and that time I scalped myself)

Take a peek inside my toolbox – my favourite hive tools

The Bee Suit (or my superhero, alien costume)

Gloves

The Smoker

The Hive Tool

The Frame Holder

Beekeeper’s Toolbox

Feeders

BONUS ITEM! Beekeeper’s Journal

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Read more about bees – Here are my previous posts:

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How to choose the best beehive for beginners

Secret #1 – Combine the best of both worlds

Secret #2 – Use All Medium Langstroth Supers

Secret #3 – Use 8-frame equipment

Secret #4: Use a slatted rack

Secret #5: Choose a screened bottom board

Secret #6: Cover your bees with a Warre Hive Roof and Quilt Box

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Benefits of beekeeping

Top 10 Benefits of Beekeeping

Happiness

Stress Relief

Fun

Honey…and lots of friends

Your Health

Honey Wine (Mead)

Beeswax

A Productive Garden

Bees are the easiest livestock to keep

Bees are a great conversation starter

**Do you really need to find the Queen bee?**